There’s no doubt that a certain amount of equipment can improve cycling safety, particularly at night. On the other hand, however much equipment you have, there’s no substitute for cycling skills and a full awareness of other traffic. When you buy a cycle helmet, it’s important to check that it’s manufactured to a proper standard. The minimum legal requirement for any helmet sold in the UK and the rest of Europe is that they are CE certified and conform to the EN1078 European Standard.



It is a legal requirement to fit front and rear lights. The front must emit White Light and the rear Red. Check and clean them regularly to ensure they are fully functional.

Risk of entrapment


When riding your bike please be aware of the potential entrapment of clothes or straps in the working parts of the bike such as the chain wheel, wheels, luggage racks etc. Ensure that items of clothing are secure and are not flapping around which could potentially get caught up, resulting in loss of control of the bike and subsequent injury





  1. Cut the shipping straps on the outside of the box.
  2. Open up the cardboard flaps, and lift it out of its box.
  3. Rotate the fork so that it is facing forward of the bike,place the bike on the ground, so it’s standing upright on the fork dropouts and rear tire.
  4. Cut all of the packing zip ties.
  5. Separate the front wheel from the bike by carefully slipping it away from the crank arm, which is resting within the spokes.
  6. Remove the accessory and set it aside






  1. Remove the plastic shipping bag from the top of the seat tube (Figure 2).
  2. Using the Allen wrench, tighten the seat clamp once it is at the correct height.


NOTE: You can make the final adjustment to the height of the seat as needed after the bike is assembled.


WARNING! Using the bike with the minimum insertion line on the lower portion of the seat post showing above the frame could result in a failure of the seat post and/or the frame causing a loss of control with potential injury to rider.Such failures are not covered by warranty as it is improper use of the product.





  1. Untwist the handlebars and control cables and insert the quill end of the stem into the fork steer tube. You may have to loosen the bolt and wedge a small amount to allow the quill to fit into the steer tube
  2. Make sure that the fork is facing forward and the handlebars are lined up with the fork dropouts.
  3. Adjust the height of the stem to your desired level and tighten the stem bolt using a 6mm wrench. You can make final adjustments to the height of the stem after the bike is assembled.


NOTE: Be sure that the minimum insertion mark on the shaft of the stem is inside the frame, it must not be visible outside of the frame


WARNING! Installing the stem with the minimum insertion mark showing outside of the frame could create a dangerous condition allowing the stem to break causing the rider to lose control resulting in serious injuries to the rider






  1. Flip the bike over so it’s resting on the saddle and handlebars.
  2. Loosen the axle nuts on the front wheel and insert the front wheel into the fork dropouts. Insert the tab of the safety washers into the small holes on the outside of the fork dropouts.
  3. Inspect the wheel to make sure it is centered in the fork  Tighten each axle nut a little at a time with a 15mm wrench, alternating between sides, until each axle nut is properly tightened.
  4. Return the bike onto its wheels and align the handlebar stem to the front wheel. Once the stem is aligned to the front wheel, tighten the stem bolt located at the top of the stem.
  5. Take out the screws in the fork ends. Using these screws, loosely fit the stays to the fork ends. Fit the mudguard bracket behind the fork. Ensure all screws are tightened.





  1. Locate the pedal stamped “R” on the end of the spindle (this is the RIGHT pedal)  Carefully insert the right pedal into the right side crank arm (the side with the chain) and thread it clockwise . You should be able to thread the pedal in part of the way by hand with minor resistance. If it seems difficult and binds, stop, remove the pedal, realign the threads and try again. Be sure you are turning the right pedal axle in a clockwise direction!
  2. Tighten the pedal with a 15mm until the pedal is securely attached to the crank arm. The pedals need to be tightened with a considerable amount of force so that they do not come lose.
  3. Locate the pedal stamped “L” on the end of the spindle (this is the LEFT pedal)
  4. Thread it counterclockwise and tighten with a 15mm spanner





Coaster Brake Models – these models are equipped with a foot operated rear coaster brake. No adjustment is required. Simply push backwards on the pedals to activate the brake.

Handbrake Equipped Models

  1. Be sure that the brake pads are aligned with the curve of the rim and that they contact the rim surface flat and evenly. The brake shoe angle and height can be adjusted by loosening the Allen bolt attaching the brake shoe to the brake arm. Notice that the brake shoe can articulate a certain amount up and down and side to side.
  2. Loosen the brake cable anchor at the brake arm held by an Allen bolt allowing the brake cable to freely glide through its anchor.
  3. Squeeze the brake arms together until the brake shoes contact the rim surface. Be sure that the black release lever at the brake arm anchor is in the down position. Pull the cable taught through its anchor and tighten the cable anchor bolt
  4. Squeeze the brake lever hard several times to take the stretch out of the cable and make sure that it does not slip through its anchor. If the cable tension is too tight to allow the wheel to spin freely, loosen the anchor bolt and give the cable some slack. If the cable has too much slack and you cannot apply enough stopping force to the rim, repeat procedure #3 to take the slack out of the cable. Be sure that the brake arms are evenly spaced from the wheel and there is some clearance between the brake pads and the rim surface. If the brake pads are not evenly spaced from the wheel, you can balance the spacing by gripping the brake assembly and rotating until it is centered with the wheel.


NOTE: We highly recommend taking your bike to a local bike shop and having your brakes set-up by a professional mechanic.






We strongly recommend you take your bike to a professional bike shop and have them check your work and fine tune the bike to ensure your bike is safe to ride.





It is important that you locate and record the serial number of your bicycle in case of a recall or if the bicycle is stolen. The serial number can be found under the crank bottom bracket stamped into the frame.





  • Wheels are tightly secured.
  • Tyres are inflated to correct pressure (indicated on side-wall of tyre). Also check condition of tyres for cuts etc. (Note: It is a good idea to carry a puncture repair kit or spare inner tube, tyre levers and pump with you).
  • Handlebar, stem and headset locknut are tight and that the steering turns smoothly.
  • Brakes – Squeeze levers to ensure sufficient pressure can be applied without the lever touching the handlebars. Also ensure brake blocks are aligned correctly with rim and the blocks are not badly worn.
  • Brake cables are not frayed at the end.
  • Gears operate correctly.
  • Wheels are running true by spinning them. You can also check that mudguards, if fitted, are correctly adjusted at this time.
  • Saddle is adjusted to the correct riding position and the seat pin is tightened. After long or hard rides or at least every month of regular use – Check same points as above + the following:
  • Clean, degrease and lubricate your bike.
  • Cranks, bottom bracket fittings and pedals are tight.
  • Tyre wear and general condition for cuts, glass, thorns etc.
  • Spokes are not loose or broken. These need to be attended to before the bike can be ridden again and you are advised to get these done at your dealer.
  • Hubs are running smoothly.